Wednesday 14 September 2011

Day 46 - Golspie to Helmsdale (18.5 miles)

The day started really well. My host from last night advised me there was a nice beach walk I could take instead of the main road. This beach walk was just over 4 miles long and took in the sights of Dunrobin castle. The castle looks out to sea and you can image the architect planning the build, with it's surrounding woodland. The trees make way for a perfect view from castle to sea. Very nice. Apparently seals can be seen frolicking near the shore along this stretch of coast, just not at this time.

My beachside walk ended as I had to return to the dreaded A9. Not really a bad road in places. Absolutely dire for a walker in other places. Just as I joined the road the heavens opened. Once again I was soaked to the skin. This time I had gale force winds blowing from the NW. This meant driving rain in the side of my face. Time to go into 'head-down-and-plod' mode. Pleasant it was not, especially with lorries rushing by just inches away. Just as the conditions were starting to get the better of me I stopped and looked out to sea, thinking how nice it would be to walk along the coast again. I then noticed a seal looking at me. That made me smile. He was probably thinking "strange these land creatures, if they like getting wet why don't they come in here?" The seal entertained me for a short while, following me as I made my way along the carriageway. It then decided I was boring and swam off.

I took a breather in a lay-by and noticed a memorial stone. The stone stated "To mark the place near which the last wolf in Sutherland was killed in 1700". It got me thinking how wild Scotland must have been back then and how hard you would have to be to live here without the infrastructure that's in place now. I mean we get in cars that take us (hopefully) to our destination, get out of our chosen automobile and leave it standing patiently until we need to use it again. Back then I'm guessing a horse would have been your mode of transport. You can't just leave that standing in the driveway day after day without any attention, then expect to jump on it and do 60 down the bridleway. It's going to need input from you, feeding, stabling, etc. Living back then must have been so hard. On top of all the extra work they had wolves to contend with! I guess something had to give and the wolves lost out.

I counted my lucky stars and moved on. I decided to start taking as many minor roads as possible. First one was hilly, tranquil, just right. Second, too short to bother with. Third... ouch! It started fine with a nice Tarmac surface, it then got narrow, then turned to gravel, then to grass, then into a garden. I went for it and walked across the garden. The owner was out in a flash! "Can I help?" she said. I really didn't want to retrace my steps just to get back on the A9. I played a bit dumb and explained I was following a track on my map.

"oh yes, well, you can try going down there" she pointed the way I was heading, then eyed my trousers. "They look quite hard wearing, you should be okay. Just keep going passed the cottage then you'll be back on the road". Sounded reasonable. I got 100yards in and found out why she had been inquisitive about my trousers ability to wear hard. Gorse. Gorse bushes everywhere. A tiny path could just be made out. I followed it all the way passed the cottage and to the road. My legs are cut to ribbons! I ventured back to the A9 and decided I'd take my chances with the lorries.

It was only a few miles later that I arrived in Helmsdale. Time now for me to tend my cuts then get sustenance. Being a harbour town surely it has to be fish and chips tonight!

7 comments:

  1. Has to be fish and chips! Another fab blog entry albeit the pain of the horrible bushes and nasty lorries, rain and wind sound hardcore. Im in agreement with everyone else. What am I going to read after the weekend? Really not long to go now at all, you've nearly done it! Congrat...... not quite yet :-)

    ReplyDelete
  2. You can't beat fish and chips and you have earned a large portion too. Hope you have a good rest and enjoy the last few days. x

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hhhhhmmmmmmm, 10 hours sitting at a desk in an office sorting out other peoples issues??? It's not going to have quite the same captive audience I feel - I don't suppose you fancy a walk back down the other way ??? No pressure it will just give us all something to read everyday!! Only joking Bruv - fish and chips and a pint followed by a good rest - sounds like a perfect evening. We are getting ourselves organised for your finish, looking forward to seeing you mate - complete with shredded legs and tatty shoes!! All the signs of a good walk.

    ReplyDelete
  4. HI hope your taste buds were fulfilled with fish, chips, mmmmmmm yummy, roast beef on Sunday eh, gosh you,re almost there, 3days to go, you have 2 radio stations up there that are supporting you, did you manage to repair your trousers as well as your legs!!!!!!!!!!!! blog sOOOOOOOOOOOOO good, HAPPY WALKING.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Sounds like a very hard day for you. But cant beleive i met you on the 3rd day from the start now your 3 days to go till the end ??? (Hello Bruv by the way) so cant wait to see the photos. Fish and chips i really do hope you managed to get some. Laughed about the seal? my husband is the Ferguson clan and like you said they had it so hard up there. Watch Braveheart when u get home makes my husband so Scotish again. good luck tomorrow cindy

    ReplyDelete
  6. Well yet another exciting day, I bet you gave that lady one of your radiant smiles thats why she alloweed you through her garden you little devil. Pity about the torn legs though, hope you managed to clean them up. Well fish and chips sounded very inviting and I hope you had a pint or wee dram to wash em down.But if the seal had hung around he'd have given you a run for your money for that lovely piece of fish.Not long now until you reach that goal JOG Triumphantly. Still sticking with you. Yes Adie why didn't I think of that, doing it in reverse, am deffinately going to get stuck for something to read. It's ok Daimon I'm not that cruel.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Best wishes for the final lap Daimon from B&J in Hellifield, enjoy the finale this weekend and the long sleep south !!! (We'll be thinking of you at our family wedding ) What an achievement just awesome !

    ReplyDelete